Dear Bagoblood,
I hear you have a meth shortage down under. Well here is your saving grace.
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How to make Meth
Index:
Materials: listed for the lava reaction only
Pre Reaction: very basic review on cleaning you ingredients for more info see wicked rains write up on E/I/RP how to get it!
The Reaction: The lava lamp reaction itself
Post Reaction: Info on what to do after the reaction
FAQs: Its Recommended you read the all the FAQs before starting the reaction.
Why it takes time: very detailed explanation why long wet rxns work
Final thoughts: self explanatory
Materials:
Lava lamp
(pseudo)ephedrine
Red Phosphorus
Iodine
D-H20 (Distilled Water)
Pre Reaction:
get some 25mg ephedrine pills that are easily cleaned with a TCE pull and cold dry acetone wash (be sure all the TCE is gone before adding acetone cause they react with each other, the acetone wash isn't essential, but you can never get the ephedrine clean enough).
shake the strikers in hot water, shake off the red in acetone, then muriatic acid boils on the red while outside, then wash with lots of water, wrap paper towels around the filter and squeeze dry, empty out on some paper and chop and dry well.
add 1 pint 7% tincture to 2 cups water and 2 shot glasses of muriatic acid then 1 pint hydrogen peroxide, mix well while adding, cover and let sit in closet 12 hours, then filter with double filter and wash with lots of water, wrap paper towels around it and squeeze completely dry, then wrap in dry towels and put in a jar and pour damp rid over it and let it sit a day.
The Reaction:
Its recommended you read all the FAQs before starting the lava lamp reaction.
Buy a 25 watt lava lamp (flea markets have the cheapest) with a bottle top that can be popped or screwed off. It seems there are tops that are attached, screw off, and pop off. The screw off type is preferred, then the pop off, the attached kinds should be avoided as there is no way to take off the top without chipping the glass.
If using homemade RP + I then.
10mL distilled water + 10g (pseudo)ephedrine (extracted well) + 7.5g red phosphorus (extracted fresh from matchbook strikers) + 15g iodine (extracted from 7% iodine tincture and dried well)
If lab grade use equal mass of iodine as ephedrine, and half the mass of red phosphorus as ephedrine. If using iodine and red phosphorus from tincture and matchbook strikers then use 50% more than if it were lab grade. Use equal mass of distilled water as ephedrine regardless.
There are 3 kinds of lava lamps there is a 40 watt, a 30 watt, and a 25 watt lamp.
As a rule of thumb, the ideal size cook is half the wattage as grams of ephedrine (40 watt is good for 20g cook, 30 watt for 15g, 25 watt for 10g-12g) and let it go 36 hours, some cooks (especially smaller than ideal) can be done in 24 hours (just check it and make sure the RP sinks to the bottom like bricks, and all the other signs of the reaction being done). The size of cook can be increased slightly but will need to increase time of cook as well. Its recommended to just get more lamps though than try bigger cooks.
Tape a punch balloon to the top of the lava lamp.
After 48 hours check it and make sure if it is ready, then work it up as usual
Gassing, washing, and recrystalization is a very good idea
Yields vary, but expect 5g minimum, more like 6g
unsure what the inside temperature of the lava lamp will be, and sure to vary from lamp to lamp, but if you want to be sure the reaction will take place then you will need to check the temp inside the bottle.
Measure the temp after an hour (when it usually is going good as a lava lamp), and go from there
I would suggest that you try it first with just some water in your lava lamp, and a thermometer suspended with a string or something, so you can find out what temperature a 25w bulb will produce. You might have to wait a few hours before you take a reading. That way you'll know, and won't have to waste precursors.
90 Celsius is sufficient however you want a temp of slightly over 100 Celsius inside flask, anywhere from 90-120 is fine though, lower the temp the longer the cook time needed.
When first tried there was doubt the 25 watt gave off enough heat, but it does, however it is barely enough get the job done.
Optional*
[It is a really good idea to cover the bottom of the bottle with aluminum foil, this increases the temperature as well as blocks the photo energy which can cause free radicals from the iodine (not good).]
After all this is in place simply turn on your lava lamp and check back 48 hours later. * See the FAQs on how to mix your starting reactants.
Post Reaction
Here is an improved post reaction
after the reaction is done, turn off the lamp and let it cool so you can hold it. Add equal volume hot water and shake well, then immediately pour into funnel with 3 prewet filters and a few cotton balls stuffed in the neck. Pour a small amount of hot water in the bottle again and get the last of the red out. Collect the filtered liquid and pour over the filters and red until it comes out with no tiny red particles in suspension (shine flashlight in it if it helps). Pour half the volume of collected liquid through the filters and collect it in the jar, save the filters to clean and reuse the red on it.
Now you should have 3-5 times the volume of the original post reaction solution in the jar. Add equal volume of hot VM&P naphtha (or whatever non-polar solvent you are going to use to pull the freebase) and mix well and let sit 15 minutes, siphon off the top layer and throw away. Repeat the wash until it comes out clean, once or twice more. these naphtha washes get out all the naphtha soluble trash so when you pull the freebase there is no naphtha soluble trash you need to clean up later
while that shit is separating into layers, mix up a 25% lye solution, 1g lye per 4mL water, it will heat up when mixed, so mix slow, and let cool to room temperature before using
add 10mL naphtha per gram of ephedrine used. Add the lye solution a few mL at a time, it should turn milky white where it hits, then go back to the yellowish color. Keep adding the lye solution every 30 seconds or so until it stays milky white and you get that fish smell, then it is ready (no pH strips needed!) no matter what the pH reads. be sure when adding the lye solution that it doesn't get too hot or yields will suffer, just give it time and it will cool
let the solution sit 15 minutes to separate into 2 layers, siphon up the top layer and save it. Repeat the adding naphtha and lye solution again and pull off the top layer again after waiting an hour or two. Add more lye and non-polar and let it sit a whole day before siphoning to get the last of it. Each naphtha pull should make the bottom layer less and less yellow. While it is sitting though go on with the procedure and go back to this afterward
now just gas the top layers with sulfuric acid and salt and filter out the product, then do an ice cold dry acetone wash and dry alcohol/acetone crystallization and you are left with some nice crystals. The crystallization is not really needed since you naphtha washed the post reaction solution and there isn't much trash in the gassed out product. The acetone wash alone is enough to clean it up nicely. However crystallization makes it look nicer and the crystals are big and clear.
go back to the saved solution and pull off the top layer and gas, then clean it up and that should be all of it. if your yield is too low (under 40% is considered low, 50% is fine, 60% and higher is great), might want to go back to the bottom layer with the water/lye/trash to see if a hot naphtha pull will get anymore, but it is doubtful. Also, might want to check the acetone and alcohol used to clean up the final product, any water still in them will eat up some product, so just evaporate it, although there is sure to be all the trash in there too. it is a good idea to save everything until the final product is obtained and the yields considered satisfactory. This way you will not throw out perfectly good product, 'waste not want not'
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No need to thank me.
